For AutoCAD, the video card is what handles displaying the 2D and 3D models on the screen. Only 3D models require anything more than a basic GPU, though, so if you will only be working with 2D models then you are better off saving money on the GPU and putting that money towards a faster CPU, SSD, or more RAM. Either way, we recommend using a workstation NVIDIA Quadro card. Mainstream GeForce cards can technically get you better performance for your dollar, although the downside is that they are not officially certified for use in AutoCAD by Autodesk. Because of this, we highly recommend using a Quadro card in any professional environment to ensure that you will be able to get full support from Autodesk if you ever have a software issue. In most situations, the faster the video card the better performance (in terms of frames per second) you will get when working with a 3D model. However, we have found that, except in extreme situations, there is little to no noticeable benefit to using anything faster than a mid-range NVIDIA Professional card. A solid go-to option is the RTX A4000, but for many users even that may be overkill - especially those dealing more with 2D than 3D workflows. AutoCAD is also very light on VRAM usage, so there is no reason to pay out for a card with lots of VRAM for strictly AutoCAD use. Additional Resources:
For Photoshop, it is extremely important to have a supported GPU, but the actual performance of that card will not make a major impact on performance. Compared to the high-end GeForce RTX 3090, the much more modest RTX 3070 is within a single percent - even when only looking at GPU accelerated tasks. Is onboard graphics good enough for Photoshop?Photoshop can run with onboard graphics, but be aware that even a low-end GPU will be nearly twice as fast for GPU-accelerated tasks. In addition, most onboard graphics can only use 512-1024MB of memory which is adequate for a single 1080p display, but if you have a 4K display or multiple displays, we highly recommend using a dedicated graphics card. How much VRAM (video card memory) does Photoshop need?While a higher-end GPU may not give significantly higher raw performance, it is essential that your video card has enough VRAM or video card memory for your projects. However, unless you have multiple 4K displays, even 4GB of VRAM should be plenty. Since all the video cards we currently offer for Photoshop have at least 8GB of VRAM, this should not be a concern for most users. Does Photoshop need a Quadro card?Photoshop works great with a Quadro card, but since 10-bit display support was added for GeForce in late July 2019, the main advantage of Quadro is the larger VRAM on the high-end models, and slightly higher reliability. Does Photoshop run better with NVIDIA or AMD?At the moment, NVIDIA has the lead over AMD in terms of performance. We have also found that NVIDIA cards tend to be slightly more reliable (both from a hardware and driver standpoint), which is why we typically use NVIDIA over AMD unless there is a clear benefit to using an AMD card.
Building a gaming PC from scratch is the only sure-fire way to ensure that your system is capable of satisfying all of your personal preferences. When you determine everything that goes into your PC from the power supply up, you know that you'll be able to play the games you want at the frame rates you want. In addition, a home-built PC keeps the door open for upgrades — as technology changes, as your gaming tastes and needs change, or as your budget allows. Though building a PC can seem intimidating, you might find that it’s easier than you think, especially when broken into manageable steps. That's why we've put together this comprehensive step-by-step guide to building your first gaming PC, complete with tips and tricks from our veteran builders. See if a pre-built vs. custom pc is right for you ›
PREP 1: PC Build ToolsThe first thing you need to do to prepare is gather the tools you need to complete the build. Preparing the materials below ahead of time goes a long way to ensure that the build process goes smoothly.
Pro-tip: Magnetic screwdrivers will prevent you from dropping screws inside your case (the magnetic tip is very weak and shouldn't have any effect on your components).
PREP 2: Gaming PC CasesBefore you start picking out components, you should have a case — or, at least, a case size — in mind. The main thing to keep in mind when picking a case is where you're going to put the computer. Your PC's final location will dictate how big you can (or cannot) go, and it will also help determine whether various premium case features are worth splurging on. You probably don't want to pay for a tempered glass side panel if the computer will be hidden under your desk, for example. Cases typically come in three sizes: Full-tower, mid-tower, and mini-tower. These are very general categories (case sizes are not standardized among manufacturers), but they're based on motherboard size.
PREP 3: Gaming PC PartsNow it's time to get your components together. This step can be as hands-on or as hands-off as you like; you can thoroughly research each individual component on your own and create a custom build from scratch, or you can find a pre-made build online and adjust it to suit your specific budget and needs. We definitely recommend coming up with a budget before you start picking components (it's easy for component shopping to get out of hand). Remember, you can always upgrade individual components later. Pro-tip: Make a build list before you make any purchases — all components need to be compatible with all other components. Pro-tip: If you're building this PC because you want to play a certain game, check that game's recommended system requirements and plan accordingly. In addition to your case, here are the components you need to build a gaming PC: Let's take a look at what each component does, why it's necessary, and what you need to look for while shopping around.
STEP 1: INSTALL CPU Parts/tools: Motherboard, CPU Take the motherboard out of its antistatic packaging and put it on your work surface. Find the CPU socket, which will be covered with a protective plastic cap. In one corner of the plastic cap, or more commonly, on the socket itself, you'll see a small arrow — take note of where this arrow is. Next to the CPU socket, you'll see a small metal lever. Press down on the lever and pull it gently to the side (away from the socket) to open the socket tray. Open the CPU and remove it from its packaging. Be very careful when handling the CPU — both the CPU and the CPU socket are extremely susceptible to physical damage. Hold the CPU on the edges — never touch the pins on the bottom of the chip, because your fingers can add dust or oil, and try not to touch the top of the chip either.
In one corner of the CPU, you'll see an arrow. Line this arrow up with the arrow on the socket, and gently place the CPU onto the socket. Once the CPU has been gently seated, you can lower the retention lever down and push it back into place. Lowering the lever may require some force, but seating the CPU will not!
STEP 2: (OPTIONAL) INSTALL M.2 SSDs Parts/tools: Motherboard, M.2 SSD, Phillips #0 screwdriver, motherboard user manual If you want to install an M.2 SSD, now is a good time to do so. First, find the M.2 slot on your motherboard. It's a small, horizontal slot with a tiny screw across from it. If you can't find it, if you find multiple M.2 slots, or if you are planning on installing more than one M.2 SSD, consult the user manual that came with your motherboard. Remove the tiny screw with a Phillips #0 screwdriver. Don't lose it. Slide the M.2 SSD gently into the slot. When it's fully seated, it will stand off the motherboard about a 35-degree angle. Push the SSD down and replace the tiny screw to lock it in place.
STEP 3: INSTALL CPU COOLING Parts/tools: Motherboard with installed CPU, CPU cooler, thermal paste, CPU cooler manual There are different types of CPU coolers. For exact installation instructions, we recommend you consult the manual that came with your CPU cooler. Some coolers require a mounting bracket. The motherboard may have a bracket pre-installed; you may need to remove this bracket if your cooler doesn't need a bracket, or replace this bracket if your cooler uses a different bracket. Do this before putting the motherboard inside the case.
Some coolers come with thermal paste pre-applied to the conductive material (which sits on the CPU) and some coolers do not. If your cooler does not have pre-applied thermal paste, you will need to manually apply thermal paste before you seat the cooler. To apply thermal paste, squeeze a small dot (no larger than a grain of rice) onto the middle of the CPU. Then, place the cooler on the CPU — the pressure will spread the thermal paste adequately.
STEP 4: INSTALL MEMORY (RAM) Parts/tools: Motherboard, RAM, motherboard user manual Determine how many RAM slots your motherboard has (most have either two or four). If you're going to fill all available RAM slots, simply snap the RAM into place. If you're not going to fill all of the RAM slots, consult the user manual to find the correct configuration and populate the RAM slots accordingly.
STEP 5: (OPTIONAL) DO A TEST RUN OUTSIDE THE CASE Parts/tools: Motherboard with CPU and CPU cooler installed, RAM, GPU, PSU, screwdriver, motherboard user manual, PC monitor (attached to GPU) Now that you've installed the CPU and the CPU cooler, you may want to perform a quick test run of your components just to make sure they all work. This test is much more difficult to perform (and troubleshoot) once everything is installed in the chassis. To do this, install GPU and connect everything to the power supply (if you don't know how to install the GPU, see section below). Make sure the power supply is connected to the motherboard (both CPU 8pin and 24pin) and GPU, then plug it in and turn it on.
Some higher-end motherboards have power buttons, but many do not. If you don't see a power button, locate the power switch pins — small pairs of prongs sticking out of colorful nodules. The power switch pins may be labeled (something like "PWR_ON"). To turn the motherboard on, use a screwdriver to tap both power switch pins at once.
You should now be able to tell if any of your components are dead or otherwise malfunctioning. If your motherboard is blinking lights or beeping at you, it's probably trying to tell you something. Some motherboards have a post code display (two digits) to help you identify what the problem is. To figure out what it's trying to tell you, consult your user manual. If your motherboard has no post code display, connect a display to the GPU and see if your system "posts" or starts up and displays the motherboard's logo. When you are finished with the test run, turn off the power supply and wait for any LEDs on the motherboard to go dark to ensure there's no residual power in the system. Then, uninstall the GPU and unplug all power cables before proceeding with the next step. STEP 6: MOUNT POWER SUPPLY Parts/tools: PSU, case, PSU cables, Phillips #2 screwdriver Unpack the PSU (or unplug it from the components if you opted for a test run) and set its cables aside (if you can). Take a look at your case and figure out where the PSU is supposed to go (probably on the bottom, near the back) and how it can be oriented. Ideally, you want to orient the PSU so that its fan faces outside the case (via a vent). If your case has a vent on the bottom, you can mount the PSU upside down, so long as the bottom vent will receive decent airflow when the PC is finished. If your case has no vents, mount the PSU so the fan is facing up (into the case) and make sure it has enough clearance.
Attach the PSU to the case using the four screws that came with the PSU. If you're using a non-modular or semi-modular power supply, now is the time to run the attached cables through the case to where they'll need to end up (make use of cable management features if your case has them). STEP 7: INSTALL MOTHERBOARD Parts/tools: Case, motherboard, I/O shield (if not attached to the motherboard), Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, motherboard user manual If your motherboard came with an unattached I/O shield — a rectangular sheet of metal with cutouts for the motherboard's ports — you should first snap it into place in the back of your case (make sure it's oriented correctly). I/O shields usually have sharp edges, so watch your fingers. Once the I/O shield is in place, you can install the motherboard. Double-check to make sure your cables are all threaded through to the correct place, and then place the motherboard (align it with the I/O shield, first). Using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, mount the first screw — the center screw — to hold the motherboard in place. Make sure you do not drag your motherboard across the standoffs attached to the chassis.
The number of screws you will need to mount the motherboard will vary based on the board, but a full-size ATX motherboard usually takes 9 screws. Fill all available screw holes. Connect the power supply to the motherboard. There are two main connections — an 8-pin CPU connector toward the top of the board and a 24-pin connector from the side.
STEP 8: INSTALL GPU Parts/tools: Motherboard, GPU, Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, motherboard user manual Find the PCIe* x16 slot on your motherboard. It will be the longest PCIe* slot and may be a different color than the others. If your motherboard has more than one PCIe* x16 slot, check the user manual to see if one slot needs to be prioritized. If any slot can be used, determine which slot you'll be using based on where other components are placed — you want your GPU to have some breathing room. Depending on your case, you may need to remove I/O covers (small metal tabs blocking the back panel of your case) to accommodate your GPU's I/O (HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, etc.) and make it accessible to the exterior of the chassis.
Remove the GPU from its antistatic packaging and carefully align it with both the rear retention bracket and the slot itself, and then gently push it into the PCIe* x16 slot (you may hear a click). The PCIe* tab on the motherboard may move into a locked position should you need to reseat the GPU.
Once the GPU is fully seated, secure it to the back of the case using one or two screws. If your GPU requires auxiliary power connectors, connect it to the power supply. STEP 9: INSTALL STORAGE Parts/tools: Motherboard, SSDs, HDDs, Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, case/chassis user manual Firstly, inspect your case. Every case is a little different when it comes to drive bays. You should be able to find a stack of bays in different sizes somewhere inside your case. They may have little plastic switches, in which case they are tool-free bays, or they may just look like metal brackets. Storage generally comes in two sizes, 2.5-inch (HDDs and SSDs) and 3.5-inch (HDDs). Most 3.5-inch bays can accept 2.5-inch drives, but not vice versa (some 3.5-inch bays will have trays that aren't designed for 2.5-inch drives, but they can still fit 2.5-inch bays). You may also see larger bays in your case — these are for larger drives such as optical drives and are usually located in the front of the case, near the top. If you have tool-free bays, each bay will have its own plastic lever or switch. Open or unlock the lever or switch and you should be able to pull out the tray. Place your drive in the tray — some 3.5-inch trays will be designed to accept 2.5-inch trays. If they are, you'll need to screw the 2.5-inch drive to the 3.5-inch tray so it doesn't move around.
Slide the tray back into the bay. It should click into place. If you don't have tool-free bays, you'll see a metal bracket (it will be big, like a sheet), with slats or holes in it. To put a drive in one of these "bays," all you have to do is slide the drive between the metal bracket and the side of your case and screw it into place. Use as many screws as the chassis manual recommends, but if you don't have enough screws most drives will be fine with just two screws. Once your drives are all in place, connect them to the motherboard (using a SATA cable, which should have come with either your drive or your motherboard) and to the power supply.
STEP 10: INSTALL OPERATING SYSTEM Parts/tools: PC, monitor, mouse, keyboard, OS saved to a flash drive If you haven’t already prepared your operating system (OS) on a USB flash drive, now is the time to do so. (See the above section on operating systems under “PREP 3: Select your components” for more details.) Plug in the USB flash drive that contains your OS, as well as a monitor, mouse, and keyboard, and turn on your PC. The first screen you see will tell you to press a key to enter the system setup or BIOS. Press the key to open BIOS. (If the screen flashes off too quickly for you to see the key, consult your motherboard's user manual.) First, you'll want to check to makes sure your components are all installed and being recognized. Find the page in BIOS that shows your PC's system info (different motherboards have different BIOS setups, but you should be able to find a screen that gives you this information) and check to make sure the system is recognizing everything you've installed so far. Next, poke around BIOS until you find the Boot page (may be called "Boot Order" or "Boot Priority"). Change the boot order so that your flash drive is first and the drive you want to install your OS on (if you're using an SSD as a boot drive, you will want to install the OS here) is second. Restart your computer. Your computer will boot from the USB and the OS installer will pop up. Follow the instructions to finish the installation.
IT DOESN'T END HERE If you’ve made it all the way through our guide, congratulations on finishing your build (especially if this is your first time)! The work, however, doesn’t necessarily have to end here. The best thing about building your own gaming PC is that the job is never truly finished. As advancements in hardware continue to emerge, a custom PC’s capacity for customization is nearly limitless, and your own rig can be as up-to-date as you desire according to both your needs and budget. When you’re next checking the recommended specs for a new game you want to play, keep these possibilities in mind. The PC you just built will serve as your foundation for all the gaming experiences ahead, and fine-tuning your components is all part of the fun of owning it. Now that you know how to build a gaming PC, consider integrating your machine into a fully fledged battlestation. You can also learn how to get the most out of your build via advanced techniques like overclocking your CPU. |
In addition to a fast CPU and a lot of RAM and storage, a graphics workstation requires a
zusammenhängende Posts
Urheberrechte © © 2024 wiewird Inc.
